‘Kenough’, cosy layers and revealing details: FW24 street styles from Milan and Paris

 


During the FW24 season's men's fashion weeks in the fashion capitals of Milan and Paris, designers and their runway presentations were not the only ones to impress. Their guests also created individual looks and provided onlookers with quite a few contradictory style choices.

While some guests opted for bare skin, others braved the wintry temperatures in warm teddy jackets or elaborate layered looks. Last year's pink 'Barbie' trend, prompted by the film, seemed to have left an unexpectedly lasting impression. By contrast, androgynous suit trousers were hard to outdo in terms of volume.

‘I’m Just Ken’

Although the 'Barbie' trend was predicted to come to an abrupt halt, Ken cannot be written off just yet. This season, the popular doll's boyfriend stepped out of her shadow and proved that he is 'Kenough' in soft shades of pink or rich fuchsia.

Male fashion enthusiasts presented complete outfits in Barbie's favourite colour, either as a counterpart to black and white, as an accessory or even as a hair colour. Instead of the tanned complexion - as seen on Ken actor Ryan Gosling in the Barbie film - shoes, gloves or ties were a popular choice to add small finishing touches. Pink was also used on a large scale with coats, jackets or shearling jackets.

Wrapped up

While light scarves adorned necks in summer, long, thickly woven scarves were pulled out of wardrobes for the colder months. Long fringes and a coarse knitted pattern characterised this season's warm companions – rarely with any logos or brand emblems.

Besides providing the option of incorporating bright colour elements, the oversized scarf also offered space for statements, as was the case with Cognomen, the label of Japanese designer Michael Hitoshi. Previously, the scarf merely peeked out from under a coat, but it has now established itself as the main protagonist: Worn loosely over an open jacket or wrapped around the head, it elevated any look.

Cosy and warm

A sense of childlike nostalgia was evoked by fur and teddy bear jackets worn by those attending the catwalk shows. Of course, contemporary faux versions of non-animal origin were used here. The fluffy-looking pieces shone in shades ranging from grey-blue and subtle snow-white to bright rainbow colours or a shaggy leopard pattern.

The versatile jacket created a bridge to elegance with black leather trousers and a beret, but also turned into a casual look inspired by hip-hop culture with baggy trousers, a cap and trainers. This season, men turned to practical shoulder bags to complete their outfits, such as those from Italian fashion house Bottega Veneta or Spanish luxury brand Loewe.

Revelations

Shortened tops, shirts with plunging necklines or off-shoulder cardigans revealed many a glimpse of chest or stomach muscles. While crop tops for men have their origins in American football and were quickly taken up by sports brands such as Nike or Adidas, this season they are represented in the form of knitwear.

Shirts worn open were held together by buttons or a safety pin, while off-the-shoulder waistcoats were modelled on women's fashion, as Jacquemus showed last year. However, the colour palette for the masculine version remained restrained, monochrome or in combination with camel or grey tones.

For all "layers of life"

A new dimension of 'layering' was presented to guests using different lengths, textures and styles. In terms of colour, a neutral approach was chosen and similar nuances were used: The 'latte' look inspired by the colours of coffee or shades of grey dominated.

Turtleneck jumpers were worn under shirts, with capes and a cropped, wide jacket with a distinctive lapel or duffle waistcoat on top, along with wide trousers, fur shoes or trainers. Wide scarves and knitted or leather bags added an extra stylish layer.

Baggy suit trousers

Until now, suits offered the opportunity to be on the safe side of fashion. In order to get involved in the world of fashion despite the classic component, extremely generously cut jackets first appeared, which were particularly popular in the pop culture of the 80s. Now they made a statement with XXL suit trousers.

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