There has been some criticism leveled at New York Fashion Week recently and a certain amount of it is valid; location-wise it’s all-over the place, the cost to put on shows is prohibitive, the sponsorships of yesteryear are gone, and so forth.
On the other hand, for those of us ‘mature’ enough to remember back to the 80’s and 90’s, New York fashion has always been a tale of two cities; uptown chic versus downtown cool. Thirty-odd years ago, season after season, year after year, the Week began with Carolina Herrera and Oscar de la Renta at The Plaza, and ended with Geoffrey Beene across the street at The Pierre. In-between, Calvin Klein, Ralph Lauren, Donna Karan et al, used their showrooms on 7th Avenue to present their current collections. The only invited guests were store buyers and the press.
At night, those same attendees went to the downtown clubs and restaurants to mingle with young designers they had read about in ‘The Village Voice’ and ‘Details Magazine’. Don’t forget that while Marc Jacobs celebrates 40 years in the business this year, and is considered part of the NYC Old Guard, when he tried to marry the two parts of NYC fashion with his 1992 ‘Grunge’ collection for Perry Ellis, he was summarily fired from his job.
With its influencers, street style stars and major celebrities sitting front row, present-day NYFW might seem a very different proposition from 30 or 40 years ago. But the fact of the matter is that the industry infrastructure hasn’t really changed and until that does, no amount of runway shows will fix it.
On the bright side, New York is still the first major city to show, (even though Copenhagen becomes more relevant with every passing season). It acts as a bellwether for what to expect to see in London, Milan and Paris, so for industry professionals wanting to get a jumpstart on the season, it’s prudent to review the key trends seen at NYFW. Here are four of the strongest.
Refined Style
Dressing in a refined and even ‘ladylike’ style is in the zeitgeist. The current TV show, ‘Feud: Capote vs. the Swans,’ with its couture-attired seventies-era socialites perfectly captures its essence. Capes, dinner suits, sheath dresses and yards of Chanel-like bouclé tweed are at the center of this trend, perfect for emulating the strong and confident ‘ladies who lunch’ of the Upper East Side.
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